What happens after you’ve seen hell?

One of the village elders of Desa Nusa.

Banda Aceh – I was told it was a bastion of conservative Islam and to watch my step. I was told it was a stand-offish and closed society, that I would be stared at and questioned. What I found has been the polar opposite. Nathan and Stephanie, the husband and wife videographers that are shooting with me these days, and I were received with warmth and hospitality. Of course others had paved the way before us. NGO workers who were friends of ours found a small village called Desa Nusa and have spent years developing their trust and building relationships there. Realistically, there is no way we could have made our way into a small village like this and receive the welcome we got without their years of service to these people.

Banda Aceh (pronounced: AhChe) is the capital of the provence of Aceh and was the epicenter for the December 2004 earthquake and tsunami that devastated countries, towns and villages all around the rim of the Indian Ocean. The tsunami has now become a part of this towns identity. It has embeded itself into it DNA and culture. I guess when something so catastrophic like this happens it had to effect a towns psyche. Everyone know not just one or two people kill by this wave, but they know dozens. This is a town were two thirds of the population was washed away buried in mud. Those of us who have never live through something like this can not understand it. I have heard the stories and they have broken my heart. Out driver lost this wife and kids. Another man we met was washed up into a village and was being drawn back out to sea when the wave was subsiding. He managed to grab on to something and pull himself to safety. He lost all his brothers and parents. A school teacher who had 150 students in his classes before the tsunami only had 15 after it and of all the teachers he only survived. The stories go on.

I am moved how these people have rebuild their lives. They still cry when they talk of their losses. Still mourn those lost to the sea. But they have moved on and have rebuilt their lives. One man who lost everything has rebuild what was a small bread business into a major factory now. Others that were working for others now own their own land and are cultivating chillies. I half expected a lot of self-pity. It certainly would have been warranted. But as of today, I have not see it. I see self determination and courage. I am impressed with the people of Aceh. I am move by their spirit.

This is Ru, with a smile that is topped only by her spirit.

The new hope for Banda Aceh.

One of several chillie farmers of Desa Nusa.

Yasin, our host in Desa Nesa.

Stephanie shares a light moment with her new friends of Desa Nusa